IF THERE is one place in Scotland where it should be easy to slate the restaurant, it’s in the Highland village of Ballachulish.
Sadly, the quarries that once put a roof over the country were long ago deemed uneconomical and most of our shingle now comes from Shanghai.
However, the benchmark of quality that was associated with Ballachulish for more than 200 years is maintained and reflected in its only restaurant and bar.
The village may be more synonymous with cutting stone but this was like striking gold on a recent trip up the west coast, through grey and brooding Glencoe, that furrowed brow on the face of the nation.
The site of the infamous massacre of 1692 still sends a cold shiver down the spine of most Scots and not even a stop in the sunshine of Ballachulish beyond could quite put it in the past.
Quick tip – if you want a plate of Campbell’s soup for your lunch, best push on to Fort William or Oban.
Thankfully, we stayed local, emerging through the clouds to hit a Michelin star we never knew about nor expected, a culinary lottery win to savour.
What a smashing find at the Laroch, under the red peak of Sgurr Dhearg and next door to Jubilee Park, where strapping lads have been battering each other with lumps of hickory wood for more than a century and escaping censure by calling it shinty.
Increasingly, the clatter of the camans is giving way to the rattle of knives and forks in the Laroch, which has only been re-opened for a few weeks but is already hoaching. Our request for a table in the restaurant at 8pm was sympathetically rejected, with the only spot available at 5.30pm, although the bar operates a first-come, first-served policy.
For sure, the busy tourist season impacts on demand, but a quick glance at the menu, chalked on a large blackboard and changed daily, easily revealed why they’re already coming from all around.
This is top quality, informal dining with the glorious emphasis on fish and seafood including mussels, salmon, haddock and scallops, all of it locally sourced.
It comes with a twist too – my Mallaig cod, for example, was served with a grilled rarebit topping on a delicious stew of mussels and boiled new potatoes.
That peek at the menu alone was enough to convince the kitchen was in the confident hands of a chef unlikely to have spent a career tossing pre-made meals in a microwave oven.
At first glance you would assume there is a premium to pay, with most main courses pitched at between £14-£17, but it’s brilliant value for an experience that is far from cheap.
It turns out the kitchen is under the control of Allan Donald, who has returned to the scene of his greatest triumph, along the road at Ballachulish House, where he won that fabled star a decade ago and was also named Scottish Chef of the Year.
His skill shines through in his new venture and he’s probably the bravest man in Scotland as well because he has opted to share the kitchen with his missus Eileen as sous chef.
Long may they reign, setting the standard for a fabulous meal with that chunky cut of fresh cod beneath the delicately grilled cheddar, which melted as softly on the fish as it did on the tongue. Margie also stayed local with her beer-battered haddock and hand-cut chunky chips, simply served with a dish of mushy peas on the side and a wedge of lemon.
Her reaction? “I like a place that’s confident enough to serve fish and chips without ceremony. The batter was perfect – crispy but not too dry and the white fillet was soft and delicious. The quality speaks for itself.”
Andy went vegetarian, with a creamy wild mushroom and asparagus risotto that was finely cooked and the balance between the crunch of the asparagus and the soft mushrooms was spot on. Sticky but never cloying.
We had passed on starters of haddock souffle, seared scallops and a duck terrine because the desserts had already caught our eye.
They didn’t disappoint and my white chocolate and raspberry cheesecake was amazing, with five little pieces of fruit balanced on top of a creamy mousse and a buttery biscuit base.
It was more the size of a small kerb than a mighty slab, but it was rich and filling enough not to put too much of a strain on the belt buckle.
Andy and Margie went for a dark chocolate tart, at least 80 per cent cacao, and its intensity was offset by a tangy passion fruit curd and mango sorbet.
One criticism? The service was a little scatty on occasions, although never offensively, as the restaurant finds its feet.
We couldn’t quite catch the eye of our server to order coffee, for example, but were happy to bask in a fine meal as Glencoe finally glowed.
• The Laroch Restaurant and Bar, Loan Fern, Ballachulish, PH49 4JB
Tel: 01855 811940
Disabled Access: Yes
www.thelarochrestaurantandbar.co.uk
Opening Times: Tues-Sun 12-3pm, 5-10pm
Bill for three: £70 Food 10/10 - Informal and outstanding dining experience.Service 4/5 - Still finding its feet.
Decor 5/5 - Homely, Highland feel.
Toilets 3/5 - Bog standard, missed in the refurb.
Value for money 5/5 - Worth every last penny.
Total: 27/30
● Got a restaurant you want reviewed? Email g.ralston@dailyrecord.co.uk or via Twitter @scotwhatson
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